TEN THINGS ABOUT GETTING THE PERFECT START
Today at 01:30 PM
(1) Starts. The start is one of the most important parts of a motocross race. However, starts aren’t the most enjoyable thing to practice all by yourself or with a trainer, mostly because even if you do a perfect one, it’s not easily measurable. Nevertheless, you will appreciate your dedication to starts when you line up with a pack of riders and go racing.
(2) Gate pick. Consider condition over position. Depending on the direction and angle of the first turn, there will be an area of the starting gate that’s more desirable than others. However, it’s usually better to move a few gates to the left or right of the “sweet spot” if you can find a rut that is straighter, not as deep, and has better traction. Of course, if your local track gives you the liberty of grooming in front of the gate, then you should focus more on finding a gate with better moisture.
(3) Gate prep. Every experienced rider has his techniques, but there’s not a one-size-fits-all approach. If you’re on a slower 125cc two-stroke, sometimes it’s better if you don’t have a rut behind the gate and instead flatten out the rut with your boots so your rear wheel isn’t hooked up on the sidewalls. This gives your wheel a chance to break traction and prevent the engine from bogging. If you have a faster bike, the sidewall traction from a rut can provide needed grip. If your bike is too fast and you struggle with doing big wheelies out of the gate, you should also flatten the rut with your boots so you aren’t getting extra sidewall traction.
(4) Ramp. Some riders like to make their rut into a ramp where the rear tire is higher than the front. We don’t recommend this. The slope can make you wheelie more and can cause you to roll into the gate before it drops. It’s best to make the rut behind the gate as level as possible. Similarly, if the rut is deep, find ways to fill it in. You don’t want to be starting in a hole.
(5) Holeshot devices.MXA test riders unanimously choose Works Connection’s Pro Launch starting device. It uses a fool-proof magnetic locking system to keep your front end locked down for the start. The depth of the device is usually around 100mm to 130mm, but you can adjust it depending on the type of start you’re doing and the bike you have. Go lower for faster bikes or if you have more traction (metal grates), and don’t use a holeshot device if you’re doing a concrete start.
(6) Starting goals. The goal is to execute a fast start where the rear wheel is driving forward (not spinning out or bogging) and the front wheel is staying just inches off the ground. If you wheelie too much, you have to pull in the clutch or chop the throttle. If you aren’t wheeling at all, you can go faster.
(7) Technique. With your feet in front of the footpegs, we recommend sitting in a neutral position on the seat. Squeeze the bike with your boots, and use the footpegs to lock in and keep your legs from flying backward. From this position, you can determine how far forward you need to lean based on how fast your bike is and how much traction you have behind the gate.
(8) Clutch. To get the perfect start, make sure you’re in second gear and have the clutch halfway out. To find the sweet spot, let it out until the bike starts to creep forward, and then pull it in just slightly from there.
(9) Eyes. Did you know your peripheral vision sparks a quicker reaction than your central vision? Don’t stare directly at the gate. Find a dirt clod about a foot or two in front of the gate to fix your gaze upon, and you’ll see the gate drop out of the bottom of your eyes. Reaction time also decreases if you stare at something for more than a few seconds. Study the races before you, and count how long it takes for the gate to drop. Try to time it so you’re looking at the gate for five seconds or less.
(10) Concrete. Concrete starts are growing less and less popular, but many tracks still use them. The key for concrete starts is to warm up your rear tire by doing a burnout a minute or two before the gate drops. The burnout cleans the rubber and heats it to improve traction.
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